Our machine as seen on Kickstarter! This is our 12"x18" machine with linear shafts and bushings. It is our basic starter model with many options and upgrades available!
By brouhaha
#443
I cleaned the rods thoroughly, and the rods slide smoothly through the oilite bushings in the Z-axis. However, when I assemble the top part of the gantry, the Z-axis binds, and will not slide without my applying a lot of force. What am I doing wrong? Is there any trick to getting this to work?
By murtaza
#486
I have the same problem, but i haven't tried sanding yet. My z axis stops about 5 inches away from the y axis posts. I was concerned that sanding the holes might introduce vibration. Any inputs on that from people who have done this.
By GVardaman
#521
Took me a while to catch up here, but I got everything together and have severe binding as well. I also get about 4"-5" from the side when it binds up and no amount of force will move it. I have taken it apart and cleaned the rods twice, but just came back here to see if I remembered correctly about sanding the holes.
Has anyone done this with success?
My X axis is also pretty sluggish. Is that another place that could use some sanding?

I am already eyeing the upgraded parts now. :roll:

I think I will power it up at least once before I tear it all down for an upgrade though, LOL.
By murtaza
#527
@GVardaman I did sand the holes for the x-axis rods and it works really well now.

I have a sluggish y-axis and i think the reason for that is that the Y-axis lead screw was installed too much inside the coupler and so it lost flexibility limiting the axis speed. I think I rounded the hex screw hole and so I cannot adjust the lead screw in the coupler now :(.
By GVardaman
#529
Ouch. I will have to look out for that.
So, I started to roll up my sandpaper and thought, "it is moving freely along the middle of the travel, why would it bind up at the ends?" Is it the mounting holes on the sides that should perhaps be opened up a bit more, rather than the bushings?
I would really like to replace the side MDF pieces with some nice solid aluminum pieces anyway. Are there plans anywhere for cutting our own replacement parts, after it is working?
Actually, I would replace all the MDF pieces with aluminum...
Putting this together reminding me far too much of IKEA furniture. :(

Also a suggestion: Include an extra sticker or two in the package. When I shellacked my pieces, the stickers had to be removed or painted over (well, I could have masked them off...)
Also, maybe sending out the file with your logo as a test run in the software. Then, nearly everyone setting up this machine would be creating one of the logos to hang up, let the kids play with, whatever...
Plus, free advertising, right? :D
Last edited by GVardaman on Tue Feb 12, 2013 11:54 am, edited 2 times in total.
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By AJ Quick
#530
I wouldn't recommend replacing all the wood parts with exact copies from aluminum. They were engineered at the sizes they currently are, to be made out of wood... and you definitely wouldn't want / need a 1" thick peice of aluminum when thinner stuff could be used.

I'll go ahead and release the G-code for the logo here soon.
By GVardaman
#533
I understand about the aluminum replacement parts. I realized when I got a quote for a new top surface that, of course, it didn't need to match the MDF and could have been maybe 1/4" thick and been just fine.
Much cheaper that way too, I'm sure!
Again, my autocorrect seems to have made a mockery of my poor typing, making it unrecognizable. I meant more stickers. Also, I was rolling up sandpaper...
Ugh.
Thanks again for the reply. Looking forward to the logo file! :D

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